I ask sponsors to choose their top three finds. Here are Specialist Auctions Vintage picks: 1970s Count Romi Trench Coat with Removable Fur Collar, $100.00; John Bates for Jean Veron Maxi Dress, $79.99; 1980s Rothschild for Lilli Ann Red Knit Dress, $35.00.

Specialist Auctions Vintage advertised with us for three months, and this is their second sponsored post. I based these questions on the previous interview with moderator Margaret Bolger; if you have any questions for them after this post, please leave them below for the next interview.

1. I understand, from your interview and from talking to other sellers, that sites like eBay have trouble working with vintage sellers? You wrote that with Specialist Auctions:

I feel as if I am part of a community of serious and ethical sellers, not just a mere number to be dictated to by some faceless management group with little knowledge pertaining to my area. (link)

Can you give some specific examples of problems you or sellers you know have faced from management without vintage selling experience?

I think the biggest problem has to be their total ignorance of the subject matter, resulting in good, solid, and correct auction listings being pulled and ended for often bewildering reasons. In addition to this, again due to ignorance, they allow totally inappropriate items to be listed in the categories. Just because a Gunne Sax dress has a Victorian-influence in its style does not make it a *Victorian* dress! Yet this seems to be allowed, whilst sellers will have a listing for a “Lucy dress” pulled, because Lucille Ball did not actually wear it. High street fashion is nowadays very much vintage-influenced, but no matter how “40s” that dress looks, it belongs in modern clothing.

There is also a never-ending battle over the use of keywords in an auction–something that is often abused, but oft-times necessary. In clothing it is acceptable to refer to something as “Chanel-like” or a “Twiggy dress”–these terms are in everyday use, and everyone knows what they mean–but for eBay, they are in fact keyword-spamming and so the auction would be pulled because it wasn’t a Chanel or a Twiggy item.

2. Can you give us a cost breakdown comparison of selling a vintage item on Specialist Auctions versus selling it on eBay? Take into account listing, store, and sale fees.

It is quite simple really–Specialist Auctions does not charge for listing in auction or for Stores. The only fee is a 3% charge on your final sale figure, therefore no sale, no charge. So, say I listed a vintage dress which sold at the opening price of $49.99. On Specialist Auctions, whether in auction or in a Store, the total fee would be $1.50.

On eBay, if it was an auction listing, the total fee (listing & final sales fee) would be $3.32. If it was in an eBay Store, the total fee (listing & final sales fee) would be $4.35, with a Store also having to pay minimum $15.95 per month for “rent”.

3. What can buyers do to avoid buying reproduction vintage and/or fake designer vintage? What are the warning signs, if any?

If a buyer wants a genuine vintage item, they first need to deal with a seller who is honest and trustworthy (check out their feedback and reputation). Buy from a site like Specialist Auctions, where all items are checked by the moderators for authenticity and correct dating. Be aware of things like construction details, labels, total style and design of the period, and how some design elements get repeated years later (for example, peplum waists were popular in the 1980s, not just the 1940s).

Warning signs: lack of detail and information in a listing, poor photographs or images, and lack of information regarding condition, faults, and flaws. High-end designer label items are rarely cheap, so beware that “bargain”! More importantly, ask questions first, before buying!

4. How do you distinguish between antique, vintage, and secondhand?

As a very general rule:
Antique = over 100 years old (i.e. anything before 1907)
Vintage = from 1907 to 1990
Secondhand = the above two classifications and items from 1990 onwards.

5. What resources can you recommend to buyers who want to learn more about vintage?

Go to sites like the Vintage Fashion Guild‘s where you can research your item (style and even label) and ask for advice from knowledgeable sellers. Invest in good books, which give details on period style and construction, designers, etc.

Thank you, Margaret! Remember, Specialist Auctions Vintage has one more interview coming, so if you have any questions about this or the previous interview, leave them below.

I ask sponsors to choose their top three finds. Here are Past Perfect Vintage’s picks (click, then scroll down): 1940s Floral Tilt Hat by Lightbody’s, $85.00; 1920s Silk Dance Dress with Beaded Deco Roses, $875.00; Red Silk Lilli Ann Jacket ca 1955, $125.00.

First, a big thank you to our July sponsors Past Perfect Vintage & Specialist Auctions Vintage. It’s been a hectic month, and they’ve been very patient. Note to potential sponsors: we will resume the sponsor program in October, with some new terms that I’ll discuss in a different post.

Right, on to our first July interview, with Holly of Past Perfect Vintage:

1) What’s your store name and where do we find you online?

We are Holly Jenkins-Evans and Monty Evans and we are Past Perfect Vintage. You can always find us at our primary site: Pastperfectvintage.com. For eBay lovers, we can also be found occasionally as pastperfect2.

2) How long have you sold vintage? Do you sell part-time or full-time?

I am going to show my age! We started selling in 1992. Monty is part-time, I am pretty much full-time.

3) Why do you sell vintage?

I come from a theatrical costume background as well as a family with a lot of talented seamstresses, so there was always a lot of emphasis on clothing and fashion. As I moved out into freelance costume design work, I shifted from collecting vintage fashion into selling it as a way to keep working between design jobs. Now it’s pretty much my full-time work.

4) What is one frustration you have with selling vintage online?

We started out selling at vintage clothing shows, and it was such a joy to actually see people’s reaction to fine pieces, and to see them light up when they found their Holy Grail. I miss that moment. I get great thank you emails, but it isn’t quite the same.

5) How much of your personal wardrobe is vintage?

My wardrobe used to be lot of vintage. Rayon sports shirts, bowling shirts for fun, 1940s suit jackets, 40s neat blouses, and 40s and 50s dresses. Even a few pair of shoes. I must admit now that I am selling online, I am no fashion plate! But I still have an eye for a good sweater. And I wear mostly vintage jewelry now.

6) What are your favorite non-vintage stores or designers?

Non-vintage? What’s that? I do like Chico’s for easy to wear clothing, because there they do have interesting surface treatments. On the far opposite end, I thought Dior’s Fall 2007 line was amazing.

7) What are three things you wish shoppers knew about buying vintage?

a) Quality construction and fabric are worth searching for. Even without a known label, better quality will translate to a better investment.

b) If you love it, get it – there won’t be another! I have rarely regretted a purchase but have regretted many a fine piece I loved but didn’t buy.

c) It’s old. So treat it with respect and care so you can to pass it along to the next generation.

8) What resources can you recommend for buyers who want to learn more about vintage?

Goodness – books, books, books. Exhibits. I was trained that primary sources were the best, such as actual garments, photos, and portraits from the time. There tons of photographic sources now, from museum exhibition catalogues to museum collections online, and the whole Dover books oeuvre. Local museums have exhibits frequently now that there is such interest. Sewing textbooks such as the Vogue Book are also very helpful when it comes to understanding period construction. The Vintage Fashion Guild has a lot of online resources that will help fill in the gaps as well. Beware the texts that feature new sketches of period fashions. They always edit out important details and tend to make the period in question look more in line with current taste.

6) What is the best item you’ve ever sold? Where did you find it?

That’s a tough one. It’s a tie.

We sold a fantastic 1908 wedding hat a few years ago. The BIGGEST Edwardian hat I have ever seen, and that is saying some. All lace, tulle, ostrich plumes and wire – it didn’t weigh anything. Plus it had a rhinestone shooting star. I found it at a Lexington, KY antique show. It came out of a Cherokee Road estate in my city of Louisville.

The other was a truly sumptuous ¾ length Teens Battenberg Lace coat with pale blue silk satin bindings and ribbons that came out of a Louisville estate on a private buy.

Thanks, Holly, for all the advice! I can’t wait to get my hands on some of those Dover books (like this one). For more great vintage, see Past Perfect Vintage’s main page or click the links above; for more vintage seller interviews, see our archive.

I ask sponsors to choose their top three finds. Here are Specialist Auctions’ picks: 1940s Train/Swag Evening Dress, $149.99; 1950s Eisenberg Originals Blue Suit, $125.00; 1980s Pink & Black Sundress, $50.00.

Our second June advertiser interview is a bit late, for obvious reasons. Unlike previous sponsors, Specialist Auctions Vintage is a section of a new auction site that features many different sellers. I emailed Margaret Bolger, co-moderator of SA’s Vintage section (along with previous sponsor Born Too Late Vintage’s Margaret), for more information.

Note: Specialist Auctions will advertise with us through August, so if you have questions after this interview, leave them below and I’ll use them for July’s sponsored post.

1. What is Specialist Auctions (SA) and where do we find you online?

Specialist Auctions (www.specialistauctions.com) was established in late 2005. The site’s concept is based around communities, whether they are established sporting clubs, collecting groups, or people with special interests like vintage and antique clothing. The idea is to create support within these communities, and create a safe and cost-effective place where communities can interact with each other (in Specialist Auctions case, interaction includes buying and selling between members).

As the Moderator of the Clothing category at Specialist Auctions, I extend a warm welcome to individual sellers and buyers or collectors, as well as any group with an interest in fashion and clothing, whether modern, vintage, or antique.

2. Why do you sell on SA, instead of more established auction sites like eBay? Why should vintage sellers sell with SA?

Personally, I have been registered with eBay since 1997 and have also been active on other selling sites.  Over the last few years, the approach and attitude of all these sites have not remained consistent to where we and many others would like them to be. We were faced with two alternatives: like it or lump it, or put your money where your mouth is and go elsewhere.

Our aim is simple:

1. Keep fees reasonable.
2. Work closely with communities.
3. Be reasonable and actually listen to our sellers and buyers.
4. Make sure all items sold are authentic (i.e. designer licensed items, vintage and antique clothing, etc.).
5. Offer a sensible alternative to other sites.
6. Avoid the jumble sale/garage sale mentality.

As a seller, I find Specialist Auctions an attractive alternative to other sites because I feel I can maintain control of my own business, with little
or no interference from the site itself. I feel as if I am part of a community of serious and ethical sellers, not just a mere number to be dictated to by some faceless management group with little knowledge pertaining to my area. The free listings and stores, low fee on sales (only 3%) and weekly uploading of all set price items to Google by the site are also a big part of the attraction.

3. Why should vintage buyers shop at SA?

Apart from the fact that we have a wide range of fabulous items on sale from many reputable sellers, buyers have the security and assurance that the item is genuine vintage, not a fake and not a reproduction version of vintage. We do provide a separate category for costumes and reproduction items for those who would like to list those items. However, it is important to differentiate between reproduction items and real vintage items. Every category on the site has Moderators who are responsible for making sure that the items listed in their area are authentic. The Moderators are experienced in the areas they moderate and will remove any ‘questionable’ item and advise the seller accordingly. So if you decide to purchase a 1950s evening dress at Specialist Auctions, you KNOW it will be a real, genuine 50s evening dress from a reputable seller.

4. What are three things you wish shoppers knew about buying vintage?

1. Vintage offers unique items which cannot be found in modern stores. No matter how much something looks like ‘vintage,’ you and tens of
thousands will be buying and wearing that same ‘vintage style’ item.  If you want style, quality, and a degree of individualism in your clothing, go for vintage every time!

2. Vintage sizing is not the same as modern sizing. Bodies have grown and proportions have changed!  The majority of women’s vintage clothing was worn with very different undergarments than what we wear today.  Always always check your own personal measurements against those of the vintage item allowing at least 2 inches for ease of fit and don’t assume that a 1940s size 14 will fit your present day size 14.  It won’t!

3. Remember that most vintage sellers are offering one-of-kind items. The sellers want you to experience and share the pleasure they get from handling such items, and many are happy and willing to work with you to achieve your vintage dream – they are all approachable and more than willing to answer any queries you may have. A happy buyer is the best sort to have!

Thanks for all your help, Margaret! Remember, if you have questions about this interview or about Specialist Auctions Vintage, just leave them below for next month’s post.